Champaner & The Glory that Surrounds It

From : The DNA
16 November 2014

EAT AND DRIVE :- History, Spirituality, Royalty, Natural Beauty & a Unique Craft @ Champaner, Pavgadh, Jambughoda & Sankheda

The Foodie & The Fotographer – Kim & Brajesh go Road Tripping through Gujarat.

A Month Ago, (DNA, 16 Oct 14) we explored Patan, a recently declared UNESCO World Heritage Site, but Champaner was given the same honour more than 10 years ago in 2004, as the only complete and unchanged Islamic pre-Mughal city.

In 1484, Sultan Mahmud Begarah took possession of the Pavgadh Hill fort and renamed it Muhammadabad. Champaner was constructed as the Capital City of Gujarat by the 16th Century.

Today the town sees hordes of visitors, but 99.9% of them head only to Pavgadh Hill to the temple of Kalika Mata – belived to be a Shaktipeeth because Sati’s toe is supposed to have fallen here. Unusually, there is a shrine built over the temple dedicated to Muslim Saint Sadanshah, who supposedly pacified Mahakali, who in a fit of rage had set out to destroy the world.

It is possible to take your vehicle half way up the hill to the parking area, which has a basic Government rest house with very nice staff, who have snacks and tea on offer (if they are open) and usable washrooms. The view from their basic outdoor dining is gorgeous and with a steaming cup of tea and piping hot pakodas, you can forget the world and the crowds outside.

Many pilgrims climb the Pavgadh hill in pilgrimage (4-5 hours round trip), but for those less physically inclined, there is a mono-cable ropeway that can carry 1200 people per hour. However, this ropeway only operates in certain seasons and is often closed for repairs and maintenance, so be prepared for that eventuality.

The Champaner Heritage Site encompasses this temple, the living town of Champaner and the Heritage Buildings spread all over the area, many of which still lie unexcavated. You can see some of these monuments as you drive up the hill. If something looks interesting, park your vehicle (at a proper space that doesn’t obstruct other traffic) and get out for a walk. Walking around these monuments is the only way to truly appreciate their size and intricate work.

The ASI Website lists over 35 monuments that have been studied, but not all of them are easily accessible. Our car often had its capabilities tested to the maximum on some of the side roads and we still couldn’t find some of the monuments on the list. We treated the whole exercise as a treasure hunt and had loads of fun.

The main series of monuments is located directly opposite the path that leads up to Pavgadh Hill. The Jami Masjid here is accepted to be the model for later mosque architecture in India. Some of these Historic sites, now house Government offices. If you ask nicely, they will let you take a walk around their premises.

Champaner is 154 km away from Ahmedabad and takes around 2.5 hours to drive, bypassing Baroda, via Halol. However, you can also spend Friday night in Baroda and then it is less than an hours drive (58 km) to Champaner. You can choose to return to Ahmedabad via Baroda (stopping here for lunch), We however prefer the more scenic route via Jambughoda (25 km) & Sankheda (40km). Then another 167 km to Ahmedabad, for a round trip of around 400 km.

The Nature Lovers Retreat is a Heritage Property of the Jamughoda Royal family, that has guesthouse style rooms and serves brilliant food. Call at least 24 hours ahead to book for lunch. You may not see any Wildlife, but the Greenery is a soothing balm to the soul. Next time we may try the recently opened Champaner Heritage Resort or the Mount Heritage Resort. If you want to explore further, head to the Jhund Hanuman temple in the sanctuary, with its 18foot high murti, believed to date to the Mahabharata era or the Government Guest House which has great views of the reservoirs.

Then take a quick drive to Sankheda and watch the carpenters known as kharadis create the unique lacquered woodwork furniture of this region. It’s a 400+ year old craft, practiced by 100+ families. Pick up a sofa set or a photo frame and know that you have bought something that isn’t manufactured anywhere else in the world.

After such a series of varied experiences and sights, head back to Ahmedabad content in all that you have achieved for the day.

Entry
Champaner Heritage Site – the main mosque – 5 Rs – same ticket can be used for entry to the other monuments too.
Ropeway - 75 Rs

Read the Entire Article on the DNA Website

@KarishmaPais
@Brajesh_Bajpai

Day Trip to Modhera & Patan

In : The DNA
On : 24 October 2014

EAT AND DRIVE :- Catch up with the Sun & the Queen.

Kim & Brajesh go Road Tripping through Gujarat.
@KarishmaPais
@Brajesh_Bajpai

Rani ki Vav at Patan was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site just 4 months ago, so it is not yet inundated with tourists. Grab the opportunity to head to this magnificently worked ancient stepwell and see for yourself, why this 11^th Century monument is worthy of this honour. On the way, stop at another Solanki monument of the same era at Modhera and breathe in the beauty at one of the 3 main Sun Temples surviving in India today.

This can easily be covered in a day trip. Start early from Ahmedabad to avoid the morning rush. Modhera is a 100km away via Kalol and takes about 1.5 hours to drive.

If it’s too early to prepare breakfast at home, you can always stop at Janpath Hotel near Mehsana, which opens as early as 6:30 am and serves great poha and lassi. Gota, samosa and bread pakoda are also on offer for those who like a crispy start to the day. If you arrive a little later in the morning , they will even offer you fresh dosas and parathas. Almost opposite, is a new McDonalds Drive-In (only), which works well if you want a fast food fix or are a little more conscious about overall cleanliness.

Drive on to the Modhera Sun Temple, where there is more than adequate parking. I have never seen the GTDC cafeteria – “Toran” – at this location open in the 15+ visits we have made, so do carry food with you, if you plan to picnic on the lovely sprawling green lawns at this site. There is a shop near the ticket window, that sells namkeen, cold drinks and water.

The museum at Modhera has been recently opened to the public. While it may seem like there is no point in spending time on broken sculptures, when a large temple complex awaits exploration, there is something to be said about browsing individual sculptures slowly. I find that I pay more attention to detail this way, but tend to gloss over intricacies when presented with a larger structure.

The Sun temple is broadly divided into the Surya Kund – Sacred Tank – surrounded by 108 mini shrines, mostly dedicated to Lord Shiva. Sabha Mandap – Assembly Hall – This is beautifully worked and since it is a semi open structure, here is where you can best admire the carvings of episodes from the Hindu epics. The Garb Gruh – sanctum sanctorum was designed in a way that the first rays of the sun on 21^st March, would fall on the idol of Suryadev in here. There is no longer an idol in this temple, or any idol of Suryadev. But there is a small functional temple to Shivji alongside the main temple and there are plenty of depictions of Suryadev on the interior and exterior of the main temple.

Drive on for another 45 minutes (36km) on SH 7 to arrive at the Rani ki Vav in Patan. Before stopping here, head a little further on the same road to the Sahastralinga Talav, to get an idea of what it must have been like during the process of excavation.

Then return on the same road to the Rani Ki Vav (supposedly built on the banks of the River Saraswati) which to us, is the pinnacle of Solanki architecture in Gujarat. Stepwells in Gujarat were not just constructed for the practical purpose of water, but most of them were also used as a social gathering place and hence great attention was paid, to make it a beautiful space. The Rani Ki Vav is the pinnacle in the design & aesthetics of subterranean architecture. It is awe inspiring, right from the time that you begin your descent into the 7 levels. The walls are covered with over 500 main sculptures and 1000 minor ones from mythology and religion. The most prominent are the dashavatar and the image of Vishnu reclining on the Sheshnag, resting in infinity between the ages.

There is rumoured to be a tunnel at the base of this stepwell which extends 30kms into Siddhpur, to be used by the Royal Family for escape, in case of emergency.

At the end of this visit, you can relax and spend time in Patan City, exploring its multiple Jain Temples or admiring the Patola weavers exquisite skill. You can head towards the picturesque town of Siddhpur and stop at Bindu Sarovar – the only place in India for matru shraddh. Or you can head back to Ahmedabad via Unjha and Mehsana, stopping for a lovely South Indian lunch or dosas at Sankalp.

If you are not yet ready to call it a day, then you can visit Thol Bird Sanctuary en route and time it in a way to be there around sunset to witness the amazing cacophony of 1000’s of birds coming to roost around the lake.

There is so much natural beauty, history and architecture to be discovered around Gujarat, that it is never a question of “what is there to do this weekend?”, it is more about “how much can I see and do this weekend?”

Modhera Sun Temple
Entry 5 Rs
Parking 20 Rs
Usable Washrooms behind the museum

Rani Ki Vav
Entry 5 Rs
Still Camera 100 Rs
Booklet 30 Rs

Sahstralinga Talav & Bindu Sarovar
Entry – Free

Thol Lake
Car with passengers – 200 Rs

Websites:
http://www.ranikivav.org
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/922


Read This Article in Detail on the DNA Website

Flying in India with Pets

I've seen the question asked on multiple forums online and instead of repeating myself every time, I decided to put down our experiences with flying with our cat, here in one place, so its easy to find for anyone looking for this information.

We fly our pet when we relocate and that happens almost every year or so. I would not recommend flying pets just for a holiday, because the stress that the pre to post flight procedures forces on them isn't worth it. Once you read the rest of my post, you will realise why I say that it is a stressful process for you and your pet. Its not as simple as packing your pet in a suitcase and heading out to catch a flight.

In India : We've flown our cat in 2011 by Jet Airways from Delhi to Guwahati and by Spice Jet in 2012 from Guwahati to Ahmedabad via Kolkatta. (they are the only 2 domestic airlines in India that have facility for carrying pets, and that too on not all their aircraft)

Basically, you need to inform the airlines at least a week in advance that you plan to travel with a pet and check that there is space and capability to carry the pet on that particular flight (they aren't allowed to carry more than 2 pets at a time).

You may be busy with packing up your house, but this is more important to close, you do not want any last minute surprises. Certain breeds of dogs and cats aren't accepted for flight travel. Mostly snub nosed pets - because they have higher difficulty breathing in extreme conditions.

You need to have the carrier yourself, which fits IATA norms (tall enough for your pet to stand in and turn around, an absorbent mat and safety features)

(I heavily recommend reading : Dubai Kennels & Cattery article on travel boxes)

I also recommend getting your pet used to the box at least a week before traveling, so they aren't freaked out on the day of travel. Let them sleep in the box (leaving it open), feed them a couple of treats when they are in there, so the thought of the box/carrier doesn't add additional stress on them.


Feed your pet and water him/her at least 2 hours before leaving home, so the food digests and lowers the chance of them throwing up during turbulence or due to fright at the strangeness of the experience.

You need to check in at least 3 hours before your flight (to give yourself and the airlines enough time to complete their checks and requirements) with an up-to-date vaccination certificate and a letter from the vet (less than a week old) that the pet is fit to fly. Always carry at least 2-3 copies of these documents and keep the originals with you, it saves stress and last minute running around for copies.

Also its easier if 2 humans accompany the pet, so the running around (if any) within the airport is easily managed. One stays in one location talking in a low murmur and keeping the pet calm and the other rushes around the airport meeting the right people and finishing the formalities.

At the airport, they might need you to take your pet out of the carrier, so that they can screen your carrier. They weigh the cat + carrier and charge a flat excess baggage rate per kilo for transportation (experience on these 2 trips, someone mentioned that Jet airways is now charging a flat fee of 5000/-Rs)

I didn't have to take her out at either Cairo or Dubai airports, but in Cairo we had to go 5 hours before to the cargo village to check her in. Procedures differ. Try and find out as much in advance as you can. even if it means driving to the airport a week in advance, to talk to someone who handles pet freight with your carrier.

In Delhi, Jet has a scanner that scans larger luggage, away from the normal screening, so its less crowded, but yeah it is scary for a cat to be taken out in a strange location and I normally add a few more long tattoos to my already scarred back. At the airport, I'm the one who holds her, because hubby just isn't confident that he can hold on to her once her self defense mechanisms start kicking in. The airlines in India don't understand that cats unlike dogs don't do well in open spaces.

In Egypt, I have heard of so many cases of cats running out of their carriers when someone opened them "by mistake" or the carrier broke due to bad handling. Obviously most aren't found again, so yes I'm paranoid. I prefer to exhibit fullblown OCD when traveling with our cat. This is the one occasion when I don't care what people think of me and just do what I think I need to do, to make sure that she travels safely

Once all the checking is done, I attach 2 -3 baggage ties to each other and reseal her carrier by looping it through the grills in front of the carrier and the side - this is an additional lock because of a fear in my mind, that seeing a cage that can be opened easily, someone along the way, might want to open the cage to take a closer look at her and our cat is very fast at slipping out and running away especially with someone who isn't used to her lightning reflexes and self defense mechanisms.

Even if we come across as paranoid, irritating or OCD, I always double and triple check at every stage that she has been loaded (I ask the air hostesses, I ask them to reconfirm with the pilot, I reconfirm that the airconditioning has been turned on in that pet hold etc) until we reach our destination. I talk to the guy with the walkie talkie outside the aircraft when we come out, the guy at the baggage carousel etc, until our cat is brought back to us and back in our hands.

Being a cat, I talk to her and calm her down, but I resist strongly the instinct to open her carrier or even give her water until we have finally arrived to our new house and I've double checked that all windows and doors are tightly shut. No matter how pitifully she mews.

I always carry her foodbowls and a familiar toy, that I give her as soon as we reach home, so she realises that this is her new home.

On our longer journeys (Cairo-Dubai 2009 + Dubai-Delhi 2010 both by Emirates) I put a used banyan/undershirt of my husbands on top of her mat, so she could get his smell during the trip and that gave her extra comfort during this new scary experience.

Also, in all my research and chats with other pet owners, vets and pet care centers - the consensus is that you should not sedate your pet if he/she is traveling as luggage/cargo. Your pet needs to be awake and alert, so they can maintain their balance and not get hurt if there is turbulence. Also there is higher risk of them choking on their vomit if they are sedated. So while your pet may be subjected to discomfort by not being sedated, it is safer for them in the long run.

However if your pet is traveling in the cabin with you (allowed in US & Europe, it the pets soft carrier can fit under the seat), it makes definite sense to sedate them, so they don't meow or bark their heads off in flight and hassle every other passenger on the flight.

Hope this information helps prepare you for flying with your pet.

The only other advice I would give : is try and keep yourself calm, because our pets pick up on our stress levels very easily and just us being stressed can stress them out too.

For more details on each airlines policies, click on the following links for:
Jet Airways
Spice Jet